Chicken Chitarnee

Jump to Recipe

As individuals, most people live and die in close proximity to where they were born.

As a species over the long term, we are migratory creatures.

When a group of people, for any of a vast number of reasons, picks up and moves to another region on the globe they bring their recipes and culinary traditions with them. Those recipes become modified according to ingredients available and are also influenced by the culinary traditions of their new region, their new neighbors.

In time, these new fusion recipes become part of the culinary tradition of that region, and they ultimately influence the cooking of other peoples who migrate to the area.

And so, what might be accepted as classic cooking of a region will most likely look different several centuries earlier, or in the future.

Chicken Chitarnee is a “classic” Jewish Indian dish. It’s a richly flavored sweet and sour curry that’s often served for celebrations. Because the chicken is braised, it can be made ahead and left to simmer, making it perfect for Shabbat. This can be made with a whole, cut-up chicken, or with your favorite parts. I make it with drumsticks and thighs, as the dark meat holds up well with extended cooking.

Traditionally, one uses chili peppers in this recipe. Not all American palates are accustomed to spicy food, and it’s possible that some people at your table can’t take the heat. Feel free to modify the recipe in regards to the chili powder and fresh chilis. You can use less, and even leave them out altogether. That said, try to use at least a pinch because they’re an important part of the flavor profile and balance. You might consider having a small dish of chili flakes on the table for those who would like to make their portion spicier.

Ingredients:

• 3—4 lbs chicken thighs and drumsticks, with skin and bones intact.

• 3 tablespoons neutral oil, plus a little more to brown the chicken

• 1—2 teaspoons sugar, to taste

• 1/4—1/3 cup fresh lemon juice, to taste

• 2 tablespoons malt vinegar

• 1 tablespoon tomato paste

• 4 large onions halved, then sliced into half rounds

• 6 cloves garlic, finely chopped

• 2" knob of ginger, peeled and finely chopped

• 2 finely chopped green chili peppers.

• 28 ounce can of tomatoes, chopped with their juice (I like San Marzano tomatoes for their low acid)

• 1 tablespoon ground turmeric

• 1 teaspoon ground red chili powder

• 2 tablespoons whole coriander seeds

• 2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds

• 10 green cardamom pods

• 1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

• freshly ground black pepper

• Cilantro (or parsley) as garnish

Method:

• Warm a small glug of oil in a Dutch oven and brown the chicken pieces on all sides, over medium high heat. You may need to do this in batches. Don’t worry about the chicken being cooked through; it will finish cooking in the sauce. Reserve the chicken and any juices.

• Combine the cumin and coriander seeds in a spice grinder and grind them together into a powder. You can use jarred ground spices, but the flavor will not be the same. Once I tried grinding my own spices I never went back to jarred.

• Warm the 3 tablespoons oil in a Dutch oven. Add the onions and sprinkle them with the sugar, then sauté them over medium heat until soft.

• Add the garlic, ginger, chili peppers and chili powder if using, turmeric, coriander, cumin, salt, and the whole cardamom pods and cook, stirring, for about 30 seconds until the spices are mixed through and fragrant.

• Add the chopped tomatoes, tomato purée, 1 Tbsp vinegar and half the lemon juice, stir to mix, and bring to a boil. Add the chicken pieces back into the pot with their juices. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 40 minutes until the chicken is cooked through.

• Turn the heat off and stir in the rest of the vinegar and lemon juice.

• Finish off with freshly ground black pepper and lots of chopped cilantro leaves.