Grandma Lee’s Split Pea Soup

with flanken or vegetarian

My grandmother’s soups were legendary. If she was making soup, any kind, we had a habit of inviting ourselves to dinner. It was easy to do that, because “The Store,” and the two apartments above it, were the family hub, and it felt like we were there almost all the time.

My father worked with Grandpa in the curtain store, and by late afternoon, the scent of whatever Grandma was cooking crept down through the pipes and swirled about the aisles. upstairs. Because we only had one car, Dad often took the bus home, but just as often, Mom picked him up. And as long as we were there …

Supper at Grandma and Grandpa’s was a nice break for my mother, who was tired after a day of teaching. We’d be tipped off by my father, who’d managed to wangle an invitation (“Gee, Mom, that sure smells good!”—Flattery gets you everywhere). Often impromptu, my brother and I would get into the car with Mom and take the 15 minute drive to Avenue J. We’d go straight upstairs so that Mom could lend a hand setting the table. Grandpa and Dad would come up after they locked up.

One of my favorites was her split pea soup. It wasn’t always the same—Grandma often improvised with whatever was at hand. Sometimes it had a big piece of flanken that she’d cut up and distribute, sometimes it had thin slices of hot dog, and sometimes it was meatless. She made it with chicken stock if there was some in the fridge, otherwise with water. But it was warm and cozy and fabulous, no matter what had gone into the pot.

When I reached my teenage years and became interested in cooking, I spent many an afternoon at her elbow by the stove, taking notes so that there’d be an actual recipe.

I also make this soup in a variety of ways. It’s less dependent upon what’s at hand than it is upon who’s coming to eat it.

Here’s Grandma’s Split Pea Soup with all its variations, for you to make in the way it suits you best.

Grandma Lee’s Split Pea Soup

Ingredients:

• 1 lb green split peas, picked over and rinsed in a strainer

  optional: about 2 lbs beef flanken on the bone, or a few hotdogs or smoked sausages, or vegetarian sausages

• a small glug of neutral oil, such as avocado or sunflower

• 1 very large, or two smaller, yellow onions, diced

• 3 large carrots, peeled and diced

• 2 large garlic cloves, chopped

• 2 celery stalks, diced

• 1 thin parsnip, peeled and diced

• about 8 cups chicken stock, vegetable stock, or water

• salt—the amount you need will depend upon the liquid you’re using

• a few grinds of black pepper

• a small bunch of fresh dill

• a couple of thick slices of rye bread (with or without caraway seeds)

• a bit of good olive oil

Method:

• Make the croutons: dice the bread slices, coat them with a little olive oil, and toss them with your hands to dress them evenly on all sides. Then, toss them in a skillet over medium heat until they’re toasted. Alternatively, put them on a baking sheet and bake them at 350° until they’re toasted, about 5 minutes or so. Watch them so that they don’t burn.

• Warm the oil in a soup pot. See below if you’re using meat*, otherwise continue to the next step.

• Add the onions, the garlic, the carrots, the celery, and the parsnips and sauté until the onion is translucent and just beginning to turn golden.

• Add the peas and the liquid and stir; add the flanken back to the pot if using. Keep the hot dogs aside for now.

• Cook the soup at a slow simmer for about 1 ½ -2 hours. The peas should be falling apart and the meat, if using, should be very tender.

• Taste for salt. It’s better to not add the salt at the beginning when cooking beans, as salt can toughen the skins. If you’ve used water, you may need up to 2 tablespoons of salt. If you’re using stock, you’ll need less. Just keep adding and tasting until it’s right for you. Add pepper to taste.

• You now have a choice—use an immersion blender or food processor to make a smooth soup, or leave it as is for a more rustic texture. Whichever way appeals to you is great; there’s no right or wrong. If you’re using flanken, make sure to remove it before puréing.

• Once the texture is to your liking, add the dill. Now is when you’ll return the hot dog slices to the soup. Cut the pieces of meat into serving size and add them in. It’s perfectly permissible to use your hands to nibble the meat off the bones. If you prefer a more formal presentation, remove the bones and cut the meat into bite-sized pieces.

• Ladle a serving of soup into each bowl.

• Top with croutons and a bit more dill for garnish, and serve.

*If you’re using flanken, use a heavy knife to cut between the bones, but don’t separate them completely. Add the meat to the hot oil and sear on both sides, about 3-5 minutes per side. Then remove it from the pot and set it aside. If you’re using hot dogs—real or vegetarian—add the slices to the hot oil and brown them quickly; then remove them from the pot and set them aside. You may need to add a bit more oil to the pot before adding the vegetables in the next step.