gravlaks

Gravlaks

The best salmon on the planet, in my humble opinion, is from Norway. And I’m not talking about the very good Norwegian salmon that can be bought in American supermarkets. I mean the stuff that’s just been pulled out of the water and prepared in the kitchen of Theatercaféen in Oslo…the memory of my time living in Vormsund looms large in my legend…

Although smoked salmon is more common in the U.S. than is gravlaks, in Norway they’re about equally available.
Between the two, gravlaks is infinitely easier to make at home, and just as delicate and delicious as the smoked variety.

The recipe calls for Akavit (which means “water of life”), a Scandinavian spirit that, tradition says, must cross the equator twice in order to develop its distinct character. Its notes of caraway are what sets it apart from other spirits. In my experience, the easiest brand to find here is Linie. It comes at different price points, just like other spirits. In a pinch you could substitute vodka or gin, but do try to find Akavit if you can.

And it’s fun to do. It takes minutes to prepare and I like watching it transform over the days it spends curing. I suggest you give it a try.

Gravlaks

Ingredients:

One whole sushi grade salmon, producing two fillets of at least 2 lbs each. This may sound extravagant, but when you considerthe  price of a pound of top quality smoked salmon, it seems less so.

Here’s how to do it:

Remove the head and tail from the salmon. Gut the fish and cut it in half lengthwise down the spine and the belly. Remove all bones (easily done with tweezers). Do not remove the skin.

Or, have a fishmonger do it for you.

You could also buy 2 pre-cut filets in the size of your choosing. Just make sure that they’re the same size and shape. Again, check carefully for pin bones.

If you can’t find sushi grade salmon, use the freshest salmon you can buy and freeze it for 24 hours before using to kill off any possible parasites.

 This Curing Mix is enough for about 4 lbs of fish. Increase the amount if your fish is bigger.

• 1/4 cup aquavit

• 1/3 cup kosher salt (do not substitute for another salt)

• 1/2 cup sugar—white sugar is traditional, but brown sugar adds a nice flavor

• 1 tablespoon freshly ground white pepper

• 1 cup dill, coarsely chopped, plus more for serving.

Method:

• Mix together the salt, sugar, white pepper, and dill.

• Cover a metal sheet pan with plastic wrap.

• Lay your filets side by side and spoon the akavit evenly over them both, gently massaging it into the fish with your fingers.

• Turn one filet over and spread the skin evenly with 1/3 of the spice mix, then place it on the pan, skin side down.

• Spread another 1/3 of the spice mix evenly over the flesh of the filet on the pan and then cover it with the second filet, flesh to flesh.

• Spread the final 1/3 of the spice mix evenly over the skin of the top filet.

• Cover the fish with plastic wrap.

• Place a heavy cutting board over the fish, and on top of the board pile heavy books or cans to weigh it down and compress the fish. This is essential for it to cure properly.

• Slide the whole business into the fridge and let it rest for one day.

• Then, remove the cutting board, the weights, and the plastic wrap covering the fish.

• Turn the fish over so that the top piece is now the bottom piece, and replace the plastic wrap, the cutting board, and the weights.

• Return the whole business to the fridge for a second day.

• Keep curing the fish in the fridge for at least 3 days, preferably for four days, turning it once a day.

  To serve:

• Separate the two filets. Using paper towels, wipe any remaining spice mixture from both sides of each filet.

• Lay one filet on the cutting board, flesh side up. Using a very sharp knife, slice the salmon as thinly as you possibly can (the slices should be almost translucent), against the grain, on the bias, holding the knife at an angle (leaving the skin behind). Repeat with the second filet.

• Arrange the slices nicely on a serving plate. Sprinkle it with a little chopped dill and arrange some lemon slices on the dish.

• Serve it the traditional Norwegian way, drizzled with mustard sauce (recipe follows) and hearty rye bread or a crispbread, such as Wasa.

• Or, serve it Jewish style, with bagels, cream cheese, capers, thinly slice sweet onions, and whatever else you’d like.

Either way, serving the gravlaks with a glass of ice cold akavit is a good thing. Skål!

mustard sauce for gravlaks

This sauce is a classic for gravlaks and it’s also great on cooked fish, chicken, and vegetables.

Ingredients:

• ¼ cup coarse grain mustard. Grey Poupon’s Country Dijon is perfect for this. If you can’t find it at your local market, you can find it here.

• 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• 2—3 tablespoons white sugar (or to desired sweetness)

• ½—1 teaspoon ground white pepper, to taste

• 1 cup cold-pressed canola oil (traditional in Norway) or other neutral oil

• lots of finely chopped dill

Method:

• In a food processor, combine the mustard with the vinegar, sugar, and white pepper. While the machine is running, slowly pour in the oil and process for about 30 seconds until thick and emulsified.

• Pour the mustard sauce into a serving bowl and stir in the dill.

*This can also be whisked by hand, if you’ve got strong biceps (that’s not me…).