lasagna alla capulet

Lasagna alla Capulet

The lasagna of 14th century Italy was very different from what we think of as lasagna today. In many modern, especially American renditions, it's all about the filling—lots of filling—the pasta sheets are only there to hold it all together. Their quality is secondary.

The Montagues and the Capulets may have been at war with each other, but one thing they would have agreed on is lasagna. There was no ricotta, no mozzarella, no ground beef or vegetables. There was no actual filling at all, although there might have been a dusting of grated hard cheese between the layers. Tomatoes had not yet been introduced to Europe, so red sauce was unheard of. It was all about the pasta, so the quality of the lasagna sheets was of utmost importance.

Squares of delicate pasta sheets were stacked with a dusting of poudre forte, a spice mix well known to fourteenth century European cooks. Sometimes, the dish was made by dipping the lasagna squares in lightly sweetened almond milk infused with saffron. (We can now dismiss the belief that nut milks are something new.)

In our version, squares of fresh pasta are dressed in a thin béchamel made with lightly sweetened almond milk that’s been infused with saffron, and sprinkled with poudre forte. The spice mix gives just the right amount of bite to cut the sweetness of the béchamel. Instead of butter, we'll make our béchamel with walnut oil.

Chestnuts were a superfood in medieval Italy, so we're going to add some chopped chestnuts to our sauce for flavor and texture, and also because I like them. I'm keeping the recipe pareve (vegan), but you can feel free to use butter and add some finely grated hard Italian cheese, such as Locatelli or Parmegiana Reggiana, if you wish to do so.

Using what my research uncovered as a guide, I pretty much made this up as I went along. The results were fabulous. This was so much fun to make and even more fun to eat. It received rave reviews and I’ll definitely be making this again.

Ingredients:

• 8 ounces fresh lasagna sheets—store bought or homemade

• ½ teaspoon crumbled saffron

• 3 tablespoons walnut oil

• 1/4 cup finely minced onion

• 2 cloves finely minced garlic

• 3.5 ounces shelled, pre-cooked chestnuts, coarsely chopped

• 1 tablespoons all-purpose flour

• 2 cups lightly sweetened almond milk

• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

• poudre forte (recipe follows)

• Optional: finely grated hard Italian cheese, such as Locatelli or Parmegiana Reggiana

Poudre Forte

Combine in a small bowl:

• 2 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger

• 1 teaspoon grains of paradise, ground *

• 2 teaspoons cinnamon (Ceylon)

• 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

• 1 1/2 teaspoons black peppercorns, ground

* Native to West Africa, grains of paradise is a spice that’s similar to black pepper, with trace notes of citrus, ginger, and cardamom. It’s an important part of the diet of lowland gorillas, is an ingredient in the Moroccan spice blend, ras el-hanout, and is essential in the production of the Norwegian spirit, aquavit. It became popular in Europe in the 14th century. Grains of paradise is also used in divination and voodoo rites.

Method:

• Preheat the oven to 300°.

• Cut the pasta sheets into squares, about 3—4 inches long.

• Prepare the poudre forte.

• In a small bowl, combine the saffron threads with 2 tablespoons very warm water and set it aside for the saffron to bloom.

• Warm the walnut oil in a saucepan and sauté the onion, chopped chestnuts, and garlic over medium heat until the onion is soft and translucent. Don't let them brown.

• Stir in the flour and cook, stirring, for three minutes to eliminate that "raw flour taste."

• Slowly whisk in the almond milk and the saffron water and cook, stirring, until the béchamel is slightly thickened.

• Bring a pot of well-salted water to boil and gently lower in a few of the pasta sheets. Let them boil for one minute and remove them carefully with a slotted spoon.

• Spoon a little béchamel into a flat baking dish and lay out the cooked lasagna sheets in a single layer. Leave a bit of space between them so that you can serve individual stacks.

• Spoon a bit of the sauce over each one and sprinkle them lightly with the spice mix. Add a little grated cheese, if using.

• Boil a second set of pasta sheets and arrange them over the first layer. Repeat the pattern—a bit of sauce, a bit of spice, and a bit of cheese if using. Continue until all the pasta is used.

• Slide the pan into the oven and bake for 15—20 minutes, until hot and bubbling.

• To serve, place individual stacks on plates. Offer diners the traditional pointed stick, or a knife and fork.