mushroom sauté with Garlic and herbs

This dish is so simple that it barely needs a recipe. But don't let the simplicity fool you. It's fabulous.

One of the surest ways to invoke a memory is with smell. Dinners at my paternal grandmother's house were always a grand affair. She often made these mushrooms to accompany roasts. They'd come to the table in an ornate silver bowl, and when the cover was lifted, their scent filled the room with fabulousness. When I make them now, I'm instantly transported to her beautiful Midtown Manhattan apartment.

You'll find these little beauties to be very versatile. They're a lovely accompaniment to all sorts of roasts, including vegetarian roasts. Arranged on a plate with fancy toothpicks, they make an excellent hors d'oeuvres. Or serve them for brunch topped with a fried or poached egg, a salad, and a hunk of crusty bread.

Ingredients:

• Mushrooms, preferably small ones—as many as you'd like. Use white button mushrooms or cremini mushrooms. Feel free to toss in other sturdy types, such as oyster, shiitake, beech, or go for broke and add some magnificent morels.

• Butter—a generous knob. You can use a glug of fruity extra virgin olive oil instead (or a combo).

• An onion—finely diced

• Garlic—several cloves, minced

• Kosher salt and pepper—to taste

• Herbs—a sprinkle of whatever you fancy. Rosemary, thyme, and herbs de Provence are good choices

• Optional—a glug of Madeira or Marsala wine

Method:

• Wipe mushrooms clean with a damp cloth. Don't run them under water.

• Leave smaller mushrooms whole. If they're large, cut them in half or quarters.

• Heat butter or oil in a skillet. Add onion and sauté until the onion is translucent and soft, then add the mushrooms, the herbs, the garlic, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper.

• Cook slowly them over medium/low heat, stirring them every few minutes. At first, the mushrooms will release their liquid (they're nature's little sponges). As they continue to cook, they'll re-absorb their juices and begin to brown. You want to get them nicely caramelized—that will bring out their best qualities.

• Optional:  Once they're beautifully golden, add a splash of Madeira or Marsala and continue to cook them, stirring, until the wine is cooked off.