potato kugel

the world’s most fabulous

potato kugel

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Potato kugel is potato kugel is potato kugel. How many different recipes can there be? Scour the internet and you’ll find a plethora of recipes for this beautiful creation that often graces Shabbat and holiday tables. You’ll notice that they’re all pretty much the same, but there are subtle differences. Over the years I’ve tweaked my recipe and my method, and I’m now of firm belief that my recipe for Potato Kugel is the most fabulous. What’s more, it’s naturally gluten free and kosher for Passover, and can be made pareve for vegetarians. (Sadly, I have not come up with a vegan version that makes me happy.) So, with this said, I offer you the World’s Most Fabulous Potato Kugel.

There are a few things that make it fabulous…

• Dividing the onions—I claim at least partial ownership of this method because, while mine isn’t the only recipe that does this, I learned it from Grandma, who never had a food blog. In fact, she never had a food processor. …Half of the onions are pureed to infuse the entire potato batter with delicious oniony goodness. The other half are diced small and then slowly sautéed in schmaltz or oil until beautifully caramelized, adding a whole new dimension of delicious onion-ness to the finished product.

• For the fat, I find the best choice is to use part neutral fruit or nut oil and part schmaltz. That unmistakable Jewish flavor comes from the schmaltz, but if you use all schmaltz, it can be too heavy. Of course, if it needs to be pareve or if you’re cooking for vegetarians, you’ll need to use all oil.

• It’s important to pour the batter into a very hot pan with very hot fat, in order to get the crispiness that’s the mark of a great kugel.

As for texture…

• Half the potatoes are grated, with the kugel disk of a Braun food processor, or the smaller grating disk of another brand. The other half are pulsed with the S blade.

• It's important to use a metal pan, rather than a glass or ceramic one, in order for your kugel to come out crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. It’s also important to use good russet potatoes. They have just the right amount of starch and moisture.

• A bit of baking powder makes it extra fluffy

• The kugel needs a bit of starch. Some use matzo meal, others go with potato starch. I say, since we’re making potatoes, potato starch is the natural choice.

• Lots of egg makes for a fluffy pudding.

Happy Kugel-ing!

Ingredients:

• 5 lbs russet potatoes

• 2 large onions

• 3 fat garlic cloves

• 6 large eggs              

• 5 tablespoons schmaltz or (fruity olive oil), divided, plus a little more

• 4 tablespoons neutral oil, such as avocado, divided

• 1tablespoon salt

• fresh ground pepper to taste

• 6 tablespoons potato starch

• 1 cup boiling water

• 1 ¼ teaspoons baking powder

• Optional: Add some diced mushrooms—button, cremini, and especially shiitake work well here.

Method:

Preheat oven to 450˚.

• Dice one onion and sauté it in a little oil or schmaltz (that’s the little more) until caramelized and golden. Set it aside to cool. If you’re adding mushrooms, put them in with the onions once the onions are translucent and then sauté them together until all is caramelized.

• In a large bowl, beat the eggs with 3 tablespoons schmaltz or olive oil, 2 tablespoons neutral oil, the salt, and the pepper.

• Add the garlic to the bowl, either finely chopped or pushed through a garlic press.

• Using a food processor with the S blade, purée the second onion until smooth, then stir it in to the bowl with the eggs. You’ll use the food processor again, but there’s no need to wash it.

• Peel the potatoes: Prepare a large bowl or pot with cold water. As you peel the potatoes, put them in one at a time, to keep them from oxidizing.

• Without washing the food processor, finely chop half the potatoes, but do not purée them. Squeeze out any liquid from the potatoes and immediately add them to the egg mixture, stirring to coat every bit of potato with egg.

• Change the blade to the grating disc and grate the remaining potatoes, one at a time, each time squeezing out the liquid and adding the potato to the bowl, stirring very well after each addition.

• Now, stir the caramelized onion into the potato/egg mixture.


• Finally, add the potato starch and the baking powder to the contents of the bowl and pour 1 cup of boiling water over all. Stir thoroughly.

• Pour the remaining schmaltz or olive oil, and the remaining neutral oil, into a 9x13 metal baking pan and slide it into the oven for a minute or so. You want it to get very hot, but don’t let it burn.

• Very carefully, so as not to burn yourself, remove the pan from the oven and pour in the potato mixture. Watch out for spatters! Smooth the top to make sure the mixture is evenly distributed.

• Bake for 30 minutes.

• Then, reduce the heat to 350˚ and bake for an additional hour, until the top is nicely browned and crispy.